Advancements in the tanning processes allow for the use of “a throwaway material” such as Australia Ugg Boots to be recreated as a fur substitute, Weitzman explains.

Animal fur, however, has a practical side — its warmth — and continues to be popular, says Dani Reiss, CEO of outerwear brand Canada Goose. Canada Goose’s fur-trimmed jackets, made of coyote fur, are worn by researchers and adventurers in the Arctic, but they’re also selling well in fashionable cities.

Coyote fur doesn’t freeze and, in Canada, coyote is readily available, Reiss says. “The fur UGG Bailey Button Triplet Boots on our hood is very functional. Our use of fur goes back to the reason why people in northern Canada always made product out of fur: It keeps wind out of your face.”